My Encaustic Mixed Media Process
I have dabbled and experimented in many different styles and mediums. From creating ocean-inspired décor pieces with fabric and driftwood, to painting with acrylic, and assembling mixed media collages with vintage paper, found objects and acrylic mediums.
Which one is my favorite medium?
I love creating mixed media artworks with encaustic wax.
What is Encaustic Painting?
Encaustic painting is an ancient media using natural and pigmented beeswax. Dammar resin is used to help stabilize it. The process involves using both clear and pigmented hot wax to paint, and then heat to fuse each layer.
Substrates (Surface)
Because the wax needs to have something to grab hold of, in order to establish a solid foundation on which to build with more wax and additional elements, the surface needs to be absorbent or porous. This means that I cannot use my beloved acrylic mediums and paints since they are not compatible. (I still do very minimally – if it doesn’t impact the integrity of the encaustic artwork.)
With encaustics, the surface also needs to be rigid or hard. The rigidity helps prevent ripples and waves from cracking the surface of the completed artwork. This means that I haven’t been using large stretched canvases for my encaustic paintings. My primary substrate of choice, lately, has been cradled wood art panels. (This creates a need for me to make room in the garage for a table saw, so I can build very large cradled wood panels.)
Encaustic Medium, Paints and Pigments

I make my own encaustic medium (a blend of clear beeswax and damar resin) and encaustic paints used in my paintings. I also use pan pastels, India Ink, watercolor, and oil sticks (which are composed of beeswax, linseed oil, and pigment. I like the Pigment Sticks brand made by R&F).
The many layers give the encaustic painting a translucent, romantic, ethereal and intriguing quality.
My Collage Assembly and Painting Process
I start with an idea sketch, and then mostly go on faith and intuition around the story that I’m trying to convey. I go into a meditative state when creating encaustic mixed media art pieces. The process and completed art work is very mesmerizing. This journey in exploring, discovering, stretching new limits with encaustic artwork connects deeply with my heart and spirit.
Storytelling with Found and Reclaimed Objects
I layer a wide variety of found and recycled materials in all of my mixed media work. I enjoy recycling them into my artwork to help create interesting background and foreground, honor memories, and to add otherwise intriguing effects in the piece.
Found materials that I frequently use are: Vintage paper such as tissue paper, newspapers, maps, letters, paper bags, postage stamps, puzzles, music sheets, travel brochures, magazines, corrugated cardboard, laces, fabrics, cheesecloth, nettings, film strips, rusty metal, screws, nails, rivets, sea glass, sea fans, and anything else to see what would go with the story in the painting.
With encaustic medium, I see, hear and feel deeper meanings into each of my subject matter. Each artwork echoes a narrative. The hidden depths in each art piece tells a redemptive, compelling and powerful story through the embedded materials and multiple layers of translucent wax.
For me, encaustic is very seductive. All the media and found objects that I have worked with come together magnificently with encaustic. This medium opens up, far and wide, the possibilities of creative expression using wax.
Encaustic Medium Recipe and Step by Step Process
You can absolutely buy encaustic medium. I prefer to make my own.
My Secret Encaustic Medium Recipe:
1. Refined Beeswax
I order a 30 lb slab from Dadant & Sons Beekeeping Supplies and Candle (total cost with tax is $260.45 USD. (Now, if you have a reseller's permit, submit it so you won't have to pay for sales tax.)
I used to employ (for free) my son to help me break it down with a hammer. But that's a lot of heavy work. Lately, I mastered the breakdown process by using an electric saw to do it faster. Do use a tarp to protect your working area because things get really messy.

2. Damar Resin
Damar resin is added to beeswax for several critical functional reasons:`
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Hardness: It allows the wax to "cure" and become a tough film over time.
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Transparency: It adds depth and clarity to the medium.
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Melting Point: It raises the melting temperature of the wax, making the finished artwork more stable in warm environments.
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Luster: It allows the surface to be buffed to a glass-like shine
Ratio of Beeswax to Damar Resin
I prefer a 4.88:1 ratio (83% beeswax and 17% damar resin) for a harder, better archival, more durable, and glossier encaustic medium. It closely aligns with the formulas used by leading commercial manufacturers, such as R&F Handmade Paints.
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Surface Hardness: This ratio creates a much tougher surface than the traditional 8:1 "starter" ratio. It is less prone to accidental scratches and can be buffed to a mirror-like high gloss.
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Clarity and Depth: The higher resin content (17%) increases the refractive index of the medium, providing more visual depth and making colors appear more saturated.
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Heat Resistance: A 4.88:1 mix has a slightly higher melting point, making the finished work more stable in warmer environments.
Key Considerations:
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Brittleness: While harder, this ratio is more brittle. It is essential to use a rigid support (like a wooden cradle board) rather than canvas. On flexible surfaces, a 4.88:1 medium is likely to crack over time.
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Scrapability: This ratio is excellent for techniques involving incising, scraping, and "sgraffito," as the wax chips away cleanly rather than dragging or smearing.
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Fusing: Because it is harder, you may need slightly more heat from your heat gun or torch to properly fuse layers compared to a softer 8:1 mix.
Common Ratios and Their Effects:
While 8:1 is the benchmark, you can adjust the ratio based on your desired finish:
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8:1 (Standard): Used by many professional artists
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4.5:1 to 6:1 (Harder): Produces a harder, glossier surface that is more resistant to heat but prone to chipping or cracking if applied too thick. Commercial brands like R&F Handmade Paints use a roughly 4.5:1 (or 9:2) ratio for their pre-made medium.
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10:1 (Softer): Results in a softer medium that is more flexible. Some conservationists recommend this higher wax content to prevent long-term yellowing and brittleness.
Safety first!
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Heating with Proper Cross-Ventilation is crucial when making encaustic medium because heated wax releases invisible, irritating fumes (like acrolein and aldehydes) that can cause headaches, nausea, and respiratory issues, so bringing in fresh air while exhausting these particles prevents buildup and ensures a safer, less irritating environment. Working outdoors or a well-ventilated setup, often with a window fan pulling air out and a fresh air source in, keeps these emissions below harmful concentrations, making the process safer.
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Heat-safe protective gloves
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Heat-safe pans and ladles.
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Respirator/dust mask for pigments
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Fire safety: Baking Soda, Fire Extinguisher, Wet rags
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Avoid working around flammable items and materials
Heat Source
Use an encaustic palette, griddle, crockpot, or mini-stove that you can control the temperature not to exceed 250 degrees. I always keep mine at 200 degrees.
Mixing Tips
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Measure by Weight: Always use a digital scale for accuracy, as volume measurements for resin crystals are unreliable due to their irregular shapes.
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Crush the Resin: Use a coffee grinder, mortar and pestle, or a hammer (while crystals are in a bag) to grind the damar into a fine powder or small bits to speed up the melting process.
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Temperature Control: Melt the mixture in an electric skillet or crockpot at roughly 200°F–220°F (93°C–104°C). Never exceed 250°F to avoid scorching the wax or releasing toxic fumes.
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Filter Impurities: Since damar is a natural tree sap, it often contains bits of bark or debris. Once melted, strain the medium through cheesecloth or a fine metal mesh into molds.
Materials & Tools

To paint in encaustic, in addition to encaustic medium, you'll need:
- Pigments/Paints: Powdered pigments or oil paints added to the wax/resin mix for color.
- Encaustic Gesso: For priming the surface, as acrylic gesso isn't compatible.
- Heating: Electric Griddle or Hot Plate (for melting, temperature-controlled), Heat Gun/Craft Dryer (for fusing layers).
- Application: Natural Bristle Brushes (wax melts synthetic bristles), metal palette knives, spatulas, potter's ribs, sticks.
- Surfaces: Rigid, porous surfaces like wood panels (Masonite, birch) are essential; stretched canvas cracks.


